Neo's Latin Cuisine opens at 1818 E. Colfax Ave

Neofito Cruz has slept only two hours in the past night while working on new recipes at his newly opened restaurant on East Colfax Avenue. The small space at 1818 E. Colfax Ave. replaced Fresh Mex last month, bringing a single-chef operation to the corner. Cruz, who is the namesake of Neo’s Latin Cuisine, works the line alone, pressing tortillas and grilling proteins in front of customers.

The menu functions like a cafeteria list where diners choose a format, filling, and tortilla type. Options include tacos, burritos, enchiladas, and tlayudas filled with chorizo, carnitas, chicken, barbacoa, birria, or al pastor. Tortillas are available in flour or white, yellow, green, and red corn. Cruz described the approach as allowing customers to build their own dish, citing examples such as adding egg to enchiladas or splitting fillings.

Cruz was born in Oaxaca, Mexico, and moved to the United States at age 14. He began his Denver culinary career in 2001 washing dishes at Govnr’s Park Tavern, where he paid a cook $20 a night for line training. He spent the next 24 years in the industry, including a decade at Onefold, which he left in 2025. A friend in the health department informed him of the Fresh Mex closure earlier this year, prompting him to raise funds and take over the lease.

The food focuses on Oaxacan techniques, with proteins simmered for extended periods. The barbacoa stew of beef tongue and cheek cooks for three days, while the green chile base uses pig heads, banana, and agave leaves. Enchiladas are served with a mole sauce made from Oaxacan chocolate, dried chiles, and approximately 14 other ingredients. Cruz noted that he develops his own recipes without formal schooling, experimenting in the kitchen after closing time.

The interior features a walk-up counter, a few stools, and minimal decor, including a framed image of the Last Supper. Cruz serves customers directly, often handing out samples of watermelon acquafresca. He stated that customer appreciation fuels his energy, saying, "I feel good when people appreciate it. It keeps me going." The restaurant is open Sunday through Wednesday from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 11 p.m., and Thursday through Saturday from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 2 a.m.